(A bit of) Actual News

With a side of butter beans

I like to tell my little food stories—everything I do in the kitchen seems to suggest a story—but even if it’s in name alone, this is a newsletter, so today I’m going to start with some actual news: You can study food writing with me this March! King’s University (my alma mater, where I received my MFA in creative non-fiction) is offering a lighter version of my original University of Toronto food-writing course—four weeks instead of eight, no homework, and open to everyone on Zoom. You don’t have to be a professional writer or a university student—all are welcome and you should consider yourself personally invited. I’d love to see you there. More details and sign up here.

As for updates on my soon-to-be published book, How to Share an Egg: A True Story of Hunger, Love and Plenty, we are editing and inching toward that pub date of January 7, 2025. (We authors play the long game, needless to say.) I’m told the last year passes quickly and there will be many exciting developments in the months to come—cover reveal! audiobook! presale info! Stay tuned for all the hot goss.

Now about the butter beans… I want to tell you that they’re easy. And comforting. And Ottolenghi-ish, if Ottolenghi were a slightly-rushed minimalist, working with ingredients on hand, instead of a wonderfully-romantic maximalist with everything at his disposal. I got inspired while listening to him chat with Ruth Rogers (of River Café fame) on her podcast, Ruthie’s Table, and the recipe below is the result. Enjoy its heat and simplicity and buttery goodness.

Oh, and a final bit of news: My next post will come to you via California and I plan to pack it with farmers market inspo and winter sunshine. Juicy citrus? Orange-cheeked persimmons? Rich dates and walnuts? I’ll explore it all and report back. Until then, keep warm and be sure to inhale the beans right out of the pan for maximum creaminess.

Hot and Savoury Butter Beans

2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

4 cocktail tomatoes (smaller than regular tomatoes but not cherry tomatoes), cut into small dice

2 tbsp good olive oil

1/2 tsp preserved chilli such as peperoncini, with a bit of the spicy oil they’re packed in

1 14 ounce/398 mL can butter beans, drained and rinsed

salt and pepper, to taste

three stems fresh thyme, leaves only

one stem fresh rosemary, leaves only, torn a bit with your hands, plus more for garnish, if desired

squeeze of fresh lemon juice

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine garlic, tomatoes and olive oil. Heat over medium low, stirring. Garlic should cook gently without browning as tomatoes give off their liquid and start to fall apart; 10-12 minutes.

Stir in peperonici and cook a couple minutes longer. Add beans and simmer lightly. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add fresh herbs and a generous squeeze of lemon juice. Transfer to plates, garnish with extra rosemary, if desired, and serve.

Serves two as a generous snack or even lunch if you make an interesting salad to go alongside. (And PS, they’re vegan.)